What a contrast, from the urbane and other worldy reaches of southern BC to Prince Rupert a utilitarian port, where forestry and fishing dominate the economy, beyond is Alaska. It really has a northern feel and look, boxy buildings sprawling along the waterfront, no landscaping, big cars and trucks all against a backdrop of forested mountains. I have left local food and the 100 mile diet far behind. The fish in fish and chips here, is halibut. The Museum of Northern British Columbia, next door to my hotel tells the settlement and exploitation history of this area but is known for its fine collection of first nations art and a workshop where many artists carve and paint. Today being Easter Saturday no-one was at work. The pre-european history is told from a first nations perspective.
The cold rain which greeted my arrival has given way to pale sun, a very fat rainbow straddles the mountainside to the north. I think I will venture into town on my steadily improving ankle to find a copy of the Globe and Mail. Tomorrow I take the train for a two day journey through the mountains to Jasper in Alberta.